Lennox Head
If you read my blog about pre-planning, you’ll know I expected to spend a month in a town called Lennox Head. I picked this place on a whim. There’s a story there, but I’m going to keep that close to my vest. Here’s what I told everyone else: It’s close to Ballina Byron Gateway Airport. It’s a quiet place with miles of coastline. You can walk through the entire town in less than 30 minutes. There’s nothing intimidating about Lennox, even if you’re a stranger from halfway around the globe.
I have to be honest, my first day was bad. I had no cell reception, which meant I couldn’t order a uber (I did get into a stranger’s car to get from the airport to my Airbnb), I couldn’t call anyone, or map my way home from the grocery store. I felt isolated. Even if that’s what I thought I wanted, it was scary when it was real. Once I had access to Wi-Fi, I called my mom and told her I had made a mistake. I told her I wanted to go back to Sydney, and abandon my plans entirely. She was completely unhelpful, and told me to book a flight home.
You see, I had this vision – a big city girl, goes to a small Australian beach town and finds herself. If you’re wondering, I succeeded in finding a version of myself. I found a girl who was forced to slow down. A girl that had to walk up and down too many hills and make each step count. A girl at peace by the sea. A girl who spent a lot of time alone with her thoughts. A girl who still doesn’t know what’s next. I found that girl in 10 days, instead of 30. What can I say? I’m efficient.
Lennox is a sweet, little beach village. I think the main strip of stores and restaurants spans across 1 mile. In my 10 days there, I walked a total of 36.73 miles. I walked into town. I walked along the beach. I walked to the lake. I walked to every café. I walked and walked and walked. When I wasn’t walking, I was writing.
I wrote and wrote and wrote – journal entries, blogs, and cover letters. I envisioned this trip as a writer’s retreat. I thought I might pen the next great American novel. Netflix would purchase the adaptation rights. I would be rich enough to afford a house in Lennox Head. I haven’t started said novel, but at least I have this blog to show for all of this time writing.
Lennox deserves to be written down. For what it’s worth, it feels like a realistic paradise. Families raising their children next to the ocean. Retired folks living out their best days at the beach. It’s a completely unpretentious, quiet existence. In my entire time there, I never felt rushed. This is random, but days had passed and I realized that I didn’t see a single runner. Everyone enjoyed the town at a peaceful pace. There’s nothing worth running to or from.
When I shortened my trip, I realized that I had to make every moment count. I operated with intention – to be present as much as I can and find something meaningful in everything I did. Even my daily confrontations with a bush turkey taught me something about myself (I learned I simply do not trust birds of any kind). When I spoke to people, I really tried to get to know them and what they liked about the town. In return, people got to know me and why I was there. Everyone was surprised that I had picked Lennox on a map, but they were grateful that I stumbled upon their beloved town. It’s now one of my beloved towns.
If you find yourself in Lennox, here’s what you need to see:
1. Seven Mile Beach: The beach is honestly everywhere you look in Lennox. I feel the best when I’m sitting by the ocean, breathing with the waves, and looking out onto the horizon. There are so many entry points and benches, that you can always find a secluded place for yourself to sit and reflect. On its busiest day, I think I saw 40 people across the entire beach. It’s almost empty on most days and times. I liked waking up early to watch surfers catch their first waves, or at sunset to look out to the cotton candy sky. I went to the beach every single day (multiple times a day), and I never grew tired of it.
2. Pat Morton Lookout: You can walk to Pat Morton Lookout from the beach or drive there and park. It’s so beautiful to look out over the ocean, and just take it all in. The sunsets feel overwhelming, like it should be impossible to witness something like that every day. It made me want to meditate, and that was a foreign feeling for me.
3. Lake Ainsworth: I don’t have a good grasp of geography (I totally cheated in that class in high school), but I didn’t think you could have lakes so close to the ocean. I thought it was an either/or situation, but I’m so glad I discovered that is not the case. This lake is beautiful and stained by tea trees. You can see so clearly into the water. I wished I had my paddle board, and I would have hung out for longer if the place wasn’t surrounded by bush turkeys. Repeat after me, NEVER trust a bird.
If you find yourself in Lennox, here’s where you should go:
1. White Wood Boutique: Go shop and say hi to Karen for me. It’s a little boutique owned by her daughter. She was the first person I met in Lennox, and she made me feel safe and welcome in the town. She also helped me find the perfect pair of linen pants.
2. Skin and Clay: Get a spa package here and thank me for it. There’s nothing like going from a relaxed morning at the beach, to a relaxing spa appointment, to a relaxed afternoon at the beach. The people are so kind and I felt like a new born baby when I walked out.
3. Rock of Ages Tattoo: Get a tattoo on a whim! It’s fun! If you hate it, it’ll only be on your body forever. I had wanted a certain tattoo for a while, and Marlon helped me out. He was incredibly kind and careful, and I’m so glad I had the opportunity to meet him and the team there. They take walk-in appointments and were easy to work/book with.
If you find yourself in Lennox, here’s where you should eat:
1. Baraka: I am not kidding or exaggerating when I say that this is the best meal you will have in your life. The Lebanese-inspired restaurant is owned by Kat and Ric (I want to be lifelong friends with them). I had the tasting menu on the first night, and their bistro menu on the second. Yea, I went TWICE in one week. They made me feel so welcome, and walked me through the menu and how they would enjoy each dish. Kat and Ric listened to my story, shared some of theirs, and gave me an incredible list of recommendations for my trip to Melbourne. It is so clear that they take pride in their work – connecting people and food. Kat had a vision and designed the beautiful space (and even made all of the tables by hand). Ric creates seasonal menus based on meaningful experiences he wants to share with people. If you encourage him, he’ll talk to you about his past football career and explain defensive tactics. Food AND football? My literal dream. I mean this genuinely, when I say this might be my favorite restaurant I’ve ever been to.
2. Williams St Café: This is one of many cafés by the water, but my personal favorite. The space is cozy and has that typical beach vibe. I had my table in the corner where I wrote and people-watched. I think they have the best latte in all of Lennox (which is saying something, because Aussies do not mess around with their coffee). They have fresh takes on comfort food, and there’s genuinely something for everyone. Jodie took good care of me and remembered me when I came in on my last day in Lennox.
3. Shelter: This restaurant is actually right next to Williams St Café. You have to go to both. It’s right by the water, and I recommend sitting at the bar closest to the window. The menu is elevated, unique, and their brown butter lemon curd is actually outrageous.
4. Lex Thai: I’m grateful Lennox has a Thai restaurant, and one that is so good. They only open after 5pm, so it’s a great dinner spot. I felt so chic when I went there, and I’m still thinking of their wagyu dumplings.
5. Freewave Sushi: Whoever thought of sushi hand rolls by the beach is a genius. This is the perfect lunch spot – grab a couple of rolls and walk to a bench and eat them while taking in the ocean. It’s so popular and there’s always a line at lunchtime, but they are very efficient.
6. Quattro: One of two Italian restaurants in Lennox. I think this is the better one. The menu is approachable and has all of your classics. I had a pizza bread sandwich that I’m honestly still not sure how they accomplished, but I’m grateful all the same. I recommend skipping their dessert and going to Lennox Head Coffee and Gelato after.
I’m going to be annoying and tell you that I did not have a single “bad” meal while I was in Lennox. I was so surprised to find so many great options in such a small destination. I ate at almost every restaurant and café in town, so I can give you a more detailed list if you ask. Either way, you truly can’t go wrong.
I am really grateful for this time in Lennox. This is cheesy, but everyday felt like a gift that I had to make the most of. My only qualm is that everything closed at 2pm. My afternoons were very isolating, and I found it hard to stay busy during those hours. Upon further reflection, I think I really needed that time to sit with myself. I’m not mad about it. By the end, it was incredibly hard to leave.
I really hope you find yourself in Lennox, I’m so glad I did.
